How To

Though seemingly simple and safe, jugging ropes, like rappelling, is one of climbing’s most insidious killers. The good news is that, as with rappelling, a few simple precautions can minimize the risk.

At some point in your climbing career, you’ll probably end up at the bottom of a double-rope rappel, marooned in space, staring wistfully at the next rap anchors overhead. Fear not! With a little bit of knowledge, you can quickly and easily climb the rap ropes. Here’s how.

“There is no avalanche danger unless a human is there,” said Dick Jackson of Aspen Expeditions at the start of a Level 1 avalanche course.

Check out Jeff Ward (AMGA/IFMGA Mountain Guide)'s author page.

Check out Jeff Ward (AMGA/IFMGA Mountain Guide)'s author page.

Check out Jeff Ward (AMGA/IFMGA Mountain Guide)'s author page.

Check out Jeff Ward (AMGA/IFMGA Mountain Guide)'s author page.

Climber mistakes stuck rope for a fixed line on the East Ledges rappels, El Capitan, Yosemite.

On remote climbs and ice and snow routes, we often have to make or beef up the rappel anchor. Here are a few tips for making a strong(er) rappel anchor without having to leave your entire rack behind.

"Is having an adze on your technical ice tool the mountaineering equivalent of showing up to a bouldering gym with your harness on (a.k.a. the sign of a novice)?"

An unroped climber falls to death from the East Ridge (IV 5.8) of Bear Creek Spire, a 13,726-foot peak in the eastern Sierra Nevada.

At some point in your climbing career, you might unexpectedly find yourself having to build an anchor on an ice or alpine route when you're out of slings and cord. Use one of the following alternative equalization techniques.