“Wow, that’s a thin belay loop,” shouted my friend from across the crag.
I was tying in to hop on Spray-a-Thon, one of my favorites at Rifle. At that point, I was used to looking down at the shoestring-thin piece of webbing connecting each half of my harness. But there was an adjustment period. As Kailas puts it, the Magic Belay Loop-Integrated construction in their Tabary Harness “eliminates overlap of webbing,” thereby improving strength.
In keeping with the primo belay loop, the Kailas Tabary harness was designed for sending. At 250 grams, it competes with other lightweight harnesses on the market. Kailas saved weight in a bunch of spots: the leg loops are a fixed size—they fit fine, although I could see climbers with larger things feeling a little constricted—and there are only two gear loops. Sometimes I found myself wanting more gear loops, but, seeing as it was designed to be a lightweight sending machine anyway, chances are you won’t miss them.
Reinforced Dyneema strands give the harness an accordion look. According to Kailas, they allow for optimal load distribution without pressure points, which has mostly proven accurate. The harness requires a break-in period. It starts off a tad stiff, but after several uses it becomes more supple and comfy.
Despite being on the thinner side, the Tabary is plenty padded. Being a smaller climber, my true test for comfort is always belaying a bigger partner—that inevitable moment when they take a huge fall and I’m yanked upward. The Tabary passed the test with flying colors. And it’s breathable. No sweat rings around my shorts, even on the scorching days.
At $154, the price point is fairly standard for the lightweight class of harnesses. The Kailas Tabary is definitely worth a look.
Kailas Tabary Harness
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