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Climbing Harnesses

Mammut Ophir Speedfit

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This article appeared in Rock and Ice issue 247 (January 2018).

Mammut Ophir Speedfit / $59.95 /
Mammut Ophir Speedfit / $59.95 /

Mammut bills the Ophir Speedfit as an all-around harness, and over the course of a couple of months I used it for long moderate sport climbs, steep projects, a seven-pitch route, and ascending free-hanging fixed lines. The waistbelt has two ice- clipper slots so you can quickly adapt to alpine mode, if that’s your thing.

The Speedfit’s eponymous leg-loop-adjustment system is cool. Simply slide the threaded buckle to tighten and loosen the loops. The design eliminates, as the manufacturer states, “the tiresome problem of ends of webbing that stick out and get in the way.”

The only end of webbing I had a problem with was the tail of the waistbelt, which tended to creep out and form a loop that got in the way of clipping. Eventually I didn’t tuck the tail into the holders at all and just let it freebird, which worked great.

I really liked the tie-in protector, a plastic mold that fits across the tie-in point—an area that is prone to sawing—on the leg loops. Overall, I appreciated the clean, light, ergonomic simplicity of the design, and the modest price tag means this harness is real value for money. I’d highly recommend the Speedfit for just about any climber and any type of climbing.


-12.7 oz. (medium).


-Zippy Speedfit adjustment system.

-Tie-in protector.

-Modest price point.


-Tail end of waistbelt can protrude and interfere with clipping.


-All climbing styles and budgets.

Also read Gear Review: Beal Venus Soft Harness