Petzl Luna
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This article appeared in Rock and Ice issue 247 (January 2018).
My first harness was the Petzl Dionysis, which debuted in 1999. At a whopping 25 ounces, the Dionysis was the Cadillac of cushy sport harnesses. A lot has changed in the world of gear since 1999, but what hasn’t changed is the comfort of Petzl harnesses.
The new Luna, updated for 2018, is softer than its predecessor and the new pressure distribution design produces no hot spots when you’re at a hanging belay or working moves. I found the wide waist belt incredibly comfortable as I fruitlessly swung and hung up my project. At 17.4 ounces (for a size medium) this harness is just shy of three ounces heavier than the older model, but is still a light delight comapred to my old Dionysis, and certainly as comfortable.
The new Luna has five large gear loops, so you can carry a ton of gear: two oversized rigid loops up front, two smaller flexible ones further back that don’t interfere if you’re wearing a pack, and a bonus extra-large fifth rear loop. There is also a nicely sized rear tag loop for multi-pitch essentials. If you need lots of gear, this carrying capacity will be hard to beat.
My only qualm with this harness is the fit, and that is no doubt personal. The leg loops and waist belt are quick and easy to adjust, but for me the leg loops did not cinch down very tight, while the waist belt barely fitted over my hips.
WEIGHT
-14.8 oz. (medium).
PROS
-Five gear loops.
-Women specific design.
-Very comfortable.
CONS
-Waist to leg loop ratio may not suit all women.
BEST FOR
-Sport and trad climbing, multi-pitch climbing.
Also read Gear Review: Beal Ellipse XT Harness