Evolvsports.com | $110 | ★★★
A non-aggressive, all-day shoe, the Evolv Demorto is a new design from Evolv for people (i.e., those with Morton’s toe) who want a symmetrical toe profile. None of our testers have Morton’s toe, but I still found the Demorto comfortable, reliable and sticky.
My first two toes weren’t scrunched up at all; they had plenty of room, which made edging pleasant. However, the rest of my toes, especially the pinkies, were squashed by the symmetrical shoe design. A good, stiff last made me think the shoe would be excellent in cracks. And they probably are, however, because my little toes had no room, jamming hand-size cracks was super painful (many people don’t realize how much you stand on your pinkie toe in crack climbing). Finger cracks were much better, and the shoes were precise and performed well.
The Demorto, a narrow shoe, are made with traction underneath the arch and on the heel, which adds grip for both heel hooks and mossy belay ledges.
FIT: I got a good fit a half size under my street-shoe size. As with all Evolv shoes, split-sizing for people whose feet are different sizes, costs an extra $30.