Five Ten Newton | $109.95 | www.fiveten.com | 4 Stars
I was all set to hate this shoe. Affordable and cushy comfortable — surely it would climb like a stale hot dog bun. Wrong!
The Newton looks old school, and is billed as an all-dayer for cracks and slabs, but when the rubber hits the rock it performs. I wore this shoe on sport climbs to 5.12, boulder problems to V7 and on a 2,000-foot 5.10 trad climb, and I never felt shorted, except on foot pain.
In my experience, shoes that fit in the length have stretched around my narrow foot to the point that the laces drew together, but the padded tongue, stretch-resistant uppers and S-lacing system on the Newton allowed me to pack my foot into the shoe and resulted in a secure fit that has lasted for months.
Despite the shoe’s copious padding, it feels as light. I did wish that the thick slab of rubber was a few millimeters thinner to yield greater sensitivity right out of the box. The upside of the thick sole is that it lasts longer between resoles. This is a good choice for climbers looking for a shoe that will get you up everything from multi-pitch cracks to advanced (but not elite) boulder problems and sport climbs.