Striking a balance between all-day comfort and high performance, the Czech Republic-based climbing brand, Ocun, has designed a shoe to rival even the most popular of the top-end crushers.
My first pitches in the Ocun Jett QC were at our local granite crag here on the Western Slope, the Narrows, which is riddled with slick, sloping edges and flaring, shallow splitters. The second outing I had in them was at Wild Iris, the limestone mecca of Wyoming, whose sharp, rounded pockets are well-known around the West. Matched against both, this slightly downturned shoe with an asymmetrical last brings roominess to the instep while maintaining the ability to climb well on various types of terrain. Sixty pitches later and they are still in good condition. As a first-time Ocun user, I’m impressed.
While remaining sensitive on a medium-soft, single-sole platform, the rubber leans a bit on the thicker side at 4mm. Ocun has their own proprietary rubber that is assigned a number value based on stickiness—the Jett QC happens to offer their stickiest of two options. The tongue is made of neoprene, good for breathability, a comfortable level of stretch, and a soft fit.
I matched the Jett QC against as much variety as I could for my first two months wearing them and managed to get on four different rocks types (plastic included)—all of which the shoe performed well on. The rubber can feel a tad bit thick when edging on bad feet, but I have yet to have a foot pop on me that was the fault of the shoe—think a softer version of the La Sportiva Muira. While comfortable, the heel cup isn’t particularly aggressive, but, then again, it isn’t made to be—this is to be added to your arsenal for all-day moderate sport climbing or just plain cragging. Concerning the fit, the Velcro straps make for quick and easy on and off while the breathable, adjustable tongue allows for all-day comfort. The toe box is generous, and overall this shoe caters to the climber with a wider foot. As for fit, a half-size from your street size will get you a performance feel.
The Jett QC clocks in at $99, about half the price of some similar shoes. The next time you’re looking for a pair of shoes that will get you up long sandstone routes in Vegas or help a buddy with their birthday challenge at Shelf, consider snagging a pair.
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