Marmot Amphibian Gloves

www.marmot.com | $70 | ★★★★★

Anyone who’s suffered through the “screaming barfies” knows how hard it is to find a good mixed-climbing glove. The Marmot Amphibian—designed by all-around climber Pete Takeda—may not prevent the painful numbing of frozen fingers, but its features definitely address the needs of the modern mixed climber.

What’s unique about the Amphibian is the use of sticky Vibram rubber on the fingertips and on the back of the hand for times on mixed routes when you hand jam or grab rock edges. The rubber is useful sometimes, but it rarely detracts. The rubber fingertips are stiff and awkward at first, but work better when broken in.

In leashless M-climbing, your grip is the only thing you’ve got. The best feature of the Amphibian is the material used in the palm, something called Pittards Oil Tec Atomic Goatskin, which adds a lot of dexterity and grip power, especially when the glove is wet.

My favorite feature is one you can’t see: The entire glove is lined with Windstopper, adding warmth to the glove without the bulk. A Velcro wrist strap keeps the glove from slipping.

—Andrew Bisharat

• Sizes: XS—XL
• Windstopper adds protection and some warmth to a light glove.
• Vibram rubber on the fingertips and backs of the hand helps in certain situations, but sometimes detracts.
• Velcro wrist strap keeps glove snug.
• Pittards Oil Tec Atomic Goatskin used for glove’s palm—highly sticky, water-resistant material yields a secure grip on leashless tools.