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30 Desert Towers - Moab, Utah
30 Desert Towers - Moab, Utah

Climb Safe


John Long: What I've Learned
John Long, original Stonemaster and climbing's most popular writer, spills his guts.
The Prophet
In 2001, Leo Houlding and Jason Pickles made an audacious ground-up, no-drill, on-sight attempt to free climb a new route on El Cap. Nine years later, The Prophet finally spoke.
TNB: Tony Scott, Climber, Movie Maker, Lived and Died Large
It is not every day that someone’s “person” contacts me, and when a voice on the phone asked if I could take a call from Tony Scott, I at first did not know who he was. A director, she said. His films included Top Gun, The Crimson Tide and others. “He’s pretty famous,” she added, and trust me that she was being helpful and not snide.
Altered State
A tricky crux, a surprise pop, a very fast 15-foot descent. I was delighted to find myself dangling from my beloved little blue Metolius. But when doing a quick body inventory, I noted that my left foot was attempting an inward 180. Suddenly, explosively, it hurt like hell. My partner Peter quickly lowered me, winced, and suggested we call an ambulance.
Beal Joker Rope Review
The Joker has multiple-personality disorder. This 9.1mm lead cord is the first-ever rope certified for single, half or twin use. At 53 grams per meter, it's also the lightest-weight single rope made, just nudging out the BlueWater Dominator and Mammut Revelation, both 9.2mm single ropes that check in at 55 grams per meter.

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