Training

Does it help to use a weight belt to increase endurance, or should weight only be added when training strength and power?

I am a 20-year-old woman, six months pregnant and a passionate climber. I’ve been climbing for three years, and already have a 2-year-old daughter.

What is the optimal ratio of rest days to climbing days to train specifically for bouldering?

Eating small meals helps keep my energy level up but I'm drained by 4 p.m., while large meals keep me satisfied but sluggish. What are some of the best foods to eat at the crag to feel energized throughout the day?

I have a recurring elbow injury. I know how to fix it, but how can I stay strong while it’s healing?

I have seen quite a few forearm strengtheners on the market. Is any one better than the other in terms of results?

I want to climb my first 5.13a but I keep getting bouted by the redpoint demons. Last year I abandoned a project because, after six days of effort, I ...

Should I only do dynamic mobility exercises as part of my warm-up? Recent studies suggest that static stretches temporarily relax the muscles and redu...

Last year I took a groundfall while trad climbing, which resulted in a compression fracture in one of my vertebrae. I hope to use this experience to b...

Does it all come down to building finger strength when you're younger?

In last year's Health Issue (No. 167), I detailed a three-month training program that included strength, power and power-endurance. While most people ...

Most long-term training programs attempt to coordinate physical, mental and skill cycles to produce a period of peak performance.