John Long Tales

Cast by chance into the frenzy of a dramatic Yosemite rescue, the author confronts his youthful fears head-on.

John Bachar laces up his boots and cinches the sling on his chalk bag. “Ready?” Only then do I realize he means to climb all two thousand feet solo, without a rope. To save face, I agree, thinking: Well, if he suggests something too crazy, I’ll just draw the line. I was the first to start soloing out at Josh anyhow.

The myth of Oliver Moon changed the face of Yosemite climbing forever.

Chasing ghosts on Hawaiian sea cliffs.

The hard way is never easy.

Violating sacrosanct trad ethics was, ironically, liberating.

Calling Buhl on the famous mountaineer’s truisms.

The cement-bucket drop test, swami belts and the beginning of the end of a fabled climbing club.

The never-ending pursuit of new routes, fame and glory.

And you thought your last climbing trip was tough.

The greatest riches lie at the end of your dreams.