Ask the Master: What’s the Best Way to Lower an Unconscious Lead Climber?
Check out Jeff Ward (AMGA/IFMGA Mountain Guide)'s author page.
ask the master
Ask the Master: Double Ropes vs. Single Rope with a Tagline
Check out Jeff Ward (AMGA/IFMGA Mountain Guide)'s author page.
Ask the Master: Catching Falls on a Multipitch Route
Check out Jeff Ward (AMGA/IFMGA Mountain Guide)'s author page.
Downwardly Mobile: Building Rappel Anchors in a Pinch
On remote climbs and ice and snow routes, we often have to make or beef up the rappel anchor. Here are a few tips for making a strong(er) rappel anchor without having to leave your entire rack behind.
Ask the Master: Waterfall Ice – To Adze, or Not to Adze
"Is having an adze on your technical ice tool the mountaineering equivalent of showing up to a bouldering gym with your harness on (a.k.a. the sign of a novice)?"
Master Class: Non-Standard Anchor Equalization Strategies
At some point in your climbing career, you might unexpectedly find yourself having to build an anchor on an ice or alpine route when you're out of slings and cord. Use one of the following alternative equalization techniques.
Ask the Master: Rappelling Overhanging Roofs and Traverses
Check out Jeff Ward (AMGA/IFMGA Mountain Guide)'s author page.
Ask the Master: The Pros and Cons of Simul-Rappelling
Check out Jeff Ward (AMGA/IFMGA Mountain Guide)'s author page.
Ask the Master: Climber Commands
Are there a standard set of accepted commands?
Ask the Master: How Do You Anchor Yourself to a Multipitch Anchor?
Quick and simple Q&A with the Master.
Ask the Master: How To Escape Tricky Multi-pitch Situations
IFMGA guide Martin Volken explains how to get out of three tricky multi-pitch climbing situations.
Ask the Master: Personal Anchors
IFMGA guide Martin Volken talks personal anchors and when to use different types.