How to Transfer a Fallen Climber’s Weight to a Snow Anchor for Crevasse Rescue
AMGA guide Jeff Ward explains how to transfer weight to a snow anchor in order to conduct a crevasse rescue
jeff ward
Ask the Master: What’s the Best Way to Lower an Unconscious Lead Climber?
Check out Jeff Ward (AMGA/IFMGA Mountain Guide)'s author page.
Ask the Master: Double Ropes vs. Single Rope with a Tagline
Check out Jeff Ward (AMGA/IFMGA Mountain Guide)'s author page.
Master Class: 7 Steps For Alpine Pack Packing
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Ask the Master: Catching Falls on a Multipitch Route
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Ask the Master: Building Anchors with Passive Pro
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Downwardly Mobile: Building Rappel Anchors in a Pinch
On remote climbs and ice and snow routes, we often have to make or beef up the rappel anchor. Here are a few tips for making a strong(er) rappel anchor without having to leave your entire rack behind.
Ask the Master: Waterfall Ice – To Adze, or Not to Adze
"Is having an adze on your technical ice tool the mountaineering equivalent of showing up to a bouldering gym with your harness on (a.k.a. the sign of a novice)?"
Master Class: Non-Standard Anchor Equalization Strategies
At some point in your climbing career, you might unexpectedly find yourself having to build an anchor on an ice or alpine route when you're out of slings and cord. Use one of the following alternative equalization techniques.
Ask the Master: Rappelling Overhanging Roofs and Traverses
Check out Jeff Ward (AMGA/IFMGA Mountain Guide)'s author page.
Ask the Master: The Pros and Cons of Simul-Rappelling
Check out Jeff Ward (AMGA/IFMGA Mountain Guide)'s author page.
Master Class: How to Rappel With a Core-Shot Rope
If you climb long enough, you will likely encounter a core shot that significantly weakens your rope. These four steps will show you how to rappel with a core-shot rope.