How to Transfer a Fallen Climber’s Weight to a Snow Anchor for Crevasse Rescue
AMGA guide Jeff Ward explains how to transfer weight to a snow anchor in order to conduct a crevasse rescue
AMGA guide Jeff Ward explains how to transfer weight to a snow anchor in order to conduct a crevasse rescue
Check out Jeff Ward (AMGA/IFMGA Mountain Guide)'s author page.
Check out Jeff Ward (AMGA/IFMGA Mountain Guide)'s author page.
Check out Jeff Ward (AMGA/IFMGA Mountain Guide)'s author page.
Check out Jeff Ward (AMGA/IFMGA Mountain Guide)'s author page.
Check out Jeff Ward (AMGA/IFMGA Mountain Guide)'s author page.
On remote climbs and ice and snow routes, we often have to make or beef up the rappel anchor. Here are a few tips for making a strong(er) rappel anchor without having to leave your entire rack behind.
"Is having an adze on your technical ice tool the mountaineering equivalent of showing up to a bouldering gym with your harness on (a.k.a. the sign of a novice)?"
At some point in your climbing career, you might unexpectedly find yourself having to build an anchor on an ice or alpine route when you're out of slings and cord. Use one of the following alternative equalization techniques.
Check out Jeff Ward (AMGA/IFMGA Mountain Guide)'s author page.
Check out Jeff Ward (AMGA/IFMGA Mountain Guide)'s author page.
If you climb long enough, you will likely encounter a core shot that significantly weakens your rope. These four steps will show you how to rappel with a core-shot rope.