Earlier this year, Alex Biale attempted Evilution Direct—a
V11, right exit variation to the infamous 55-foot Jason Kehl highball Evilution (V12/13 R) in Bishop, California. It didn’t work out so well
for Biale. Above the lip, Biale had second thoughts and opted for the 20+ foot fall onto the pads instead of the 55-foot top out.
“That was my last attempt,” he said afterwards.
Apparently the experience faded enough for Biale to give it another, this time successful, go.
“Finally joined the cool kids club,” Biale writes. “This boulder, by far, means the most to me. I learned how to manage my anxiety and turn it into something
I can use.
“Evilution Direct is one of the best, if not the best boulder of its grade in the world.”
Filmed by Joe Ramos