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Carlo Traversi and the Second Ascent of “Meltdown” (5.14c)

Ten years. That’s how long Meltdown stood unrepeated...

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Considering that Meltdown is located in Yosemite, the Mecca of traditional climbing, it’s safe to assume that the route—established by Beth Rodden on Valentine’s Day in 2008—is one of the hardest crack climbs in the world. Many of the world’s strongest booted up for a go at the line, and all came away empty handed.

But on November 7, 2018, Carlo Traversi put all the pieces together, and clipped the chains on the route, claiming the coveted second ascent of Meltdown.

For Traversi, the achievement solidified what he already suspected: Beth Rodden’s legendary ascent was ahead of its time. “I still don’t completely understand it,” writes Traversi. “But cheers to Beth for showing me the way.”


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