Chris Sharma Sends “Futuristic Old School” Magie Blanche (5.14a)
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There’s old school climbing and new school climbing—and then there’s futuristic old school climbing. Back to the future?
Chris Sharma and Marc Le Menestrel jump on the iconic 1980s route Magie Blanche (8b+/5.14a) outside of Mouriès, France. Le Menestrel equipped
the route in 1986 but was never able to redpoint. Three years later Didier Raboutou, another Frenchman, claimed the first ascent and at the time, Magie Blanche was
one of the first 5.14a’s in the world.
The vertical, techy route differs in style from today’s hardest—usually overhanging—but after Sharma sussed out the beta, he sent on his second
go.