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Climber Bails Off Evilution Direct Highball

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Alex Biale climbs Evilution to the lip (V10)—the
beginning to the infamous 55-foot Jason Kehl highball Evilution (V12/13 R) in Bishop, California—and, in the moment, decides to
keep going.

“I’ve always wanted to do the direct [a V11, right exit variation to Evilution],” Biale writes in the video description, “but never had the 1)
balls or 2) skill set.”

Biale goes for it, following beta sprayed from the crowd below. “Since I’m not quite tall enough to reach the last hold using the standard method, I opted
for a micro crystal (two finger crimp) out right to help me gain the last hold. Carlo also used this method but we both felt uncomfortable biting down
on the crystal that high off the ground.”

Pulling on the micro crystal, Biale has second thoughts. He opts for the 20+ foot fall onto the
pads instead of the 55-foot top out.

“That was my last attempt,” he says.

Apparently not – Watch Alex Biale Sends Evilution Direct (V11) Highball

Don’t get stuck halfway up a highball without beta! Read Climbing Literacy – Get Better Instantly By Reading Routes

And Climb Safe: Spotting for Bouldering