Hangboard Exercises: Repeaters, Encores, and Assisted One-Arms
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Struggling to hang on to those granite knife blades? Limestone dimples got you down? This climber shows us a few tendon-toughening exercises
to prepare for Send-tember’s impending projects.
Repeaters:
1 set = 6 x 7 seconds on, 3 seconds rest. Repeat on four to six different holds, with 4 minutes rest between sets.
Encores:
1 set = 7 seconds with arms slightly bent, 3 seconds rest, 7 seconds with arms at 90 degrees, 3 seconds rest, 7 seconds at a full lock-off.
Repeat on four to six different holds, with 4 minutes rest between sets.
One Arm Hangs (assisted with pulley, or without):
1 set = 10-12 seconds each arm, cycling through three positions (slightly bent, 90 degrees, full lock-off). Rest 2 minutes between each position.
Repeat on four to five different holds, with 4-5 minutes rest between sets.
Happy training!