Become a Member

Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more.

Already have an account? Sign In

Become a Member

Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more.

Already have an account? Sign In

Brands

Climbing

Hazel Findlay FA of Trad Testpiece Tainted Love (5.13d), Squamish

Trad extraordinaire Hazel Findlay makes the first ascent of a blank Squamish corner high on the Chief.

Lock Icon

Become a member to unlock this story and receive other great perks.

Already have an Outside Account? Sign in

Outside+ Logo

All Access
40% off Season's Streamings Sale
$1.14 / week*

  • A $500 value with 25+ benefits including:
  • Access to all member-only content on all 17 publications in the Outside network like Rock and Ice, Climbing, Outside, Backpacker, Trail Runner and more
  • Annual subscription to Climbing magazine.
  • Annual gear guides for climbing, camping, skiing, cycling, and more
  • Gaia GPS Premium with hundreds of maps and global trail recommendations, a $39.99 value
  • Today’s Plan training platform with customized training plans
  • Premium access to Outside TV and 1,000+ hours of exclusive shows
  • Annual subscription to Outside magazine
Join Outside+

*Outside memberships are billed annually. Print subscriptions available to U.S. residents only. You may cancel your membership at anytime, but no refunds will be issued for payments already made. Upon cancellation, you will have access to your membership through the end of your paid year. More Details

Hazel Findlay said she had no plans to make any hard, trad first ascents when she rolled into Squamish, but “following her nose” and fellow Brit Neil Dyer brought her to Tainted Love.

The exposed and desperately thin corner, protected primarily by micro wires, sits right at the top of the Chief in Squamish, British Columbia.

“When it came to the send day I gave myself 30% chance of success,” wrote Findlay on the Black Diamond website. “It was crazy hot out and due to the forest fires, there was no breeze for relief. Despite the terrible conditions I reminded myself that ‘sending’ is mostly mental with the real variables and limitations existing between your ears.”

“I didn’t climb it ‘well’,” she continued, “typically I messed up all my beta, forgot everything I was supposed to remember but still, I managed to pull some magic tricks out the bag and moment by moment shook my way to the top.”


Video: Jonny Baker

Edit: Kipp Schorr


Also Read

Hazel Findlay Frees the Salathé Wall

And Watch

VIDEO: Hazel Findlay On The Secrets Of Van Life