Become a Member

Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more.

Already have an account? Sign In

Become a Member

Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more.

Already have an account? Sign In

Brands

Climbing

Jorg Verhoeven: Free Climbing the Nose

Lock Icon

Become a member to unlock this story and receive other great perks.

Already have an Outside Account? Sign in

Outside+ Logo

All-Access
Intro Offer
$3.99 / month*

  • A $500 value with 25+ benefits including:
  • Access to all member-only content on all 17 publications in the Outside network like Rock and Ice, Climbing, Outside, Backpacker, Trail Runner and more
  • Annual subscription to Climbing magazine.
  • Annual gear guides for climbing, camping, skiing, cycling, and more
  • Gaia GPS Premium with hundreds of maps and global trail recommendations, a $39.99 value
  • Outside Learn, our new online education hub loaded with more than 2,000 videos across 450 lessons including 6 Weeks to Stronger Fingers and Strength Training for Injury Prevention
  • Premium access to Outside TV and 1,000+ hours of exclusive shows
  • Annual subscription to Outside magazine
Join Outside+

*Outside memberships are billed annually. Print subscriptions available to U.S. residents only. You may cancel your membership at anytime, but no refunds will be issued for payments already made. Upon cancellation, you will have access to your membership through the end of your paid year. More Details

Jorg Verhoeven became the fourth climber to free the Nose (VI 5.14a) in October of 2014—more than 20 years after Lynn Hill claimed
the first ascent. Verhoeven discusses his experience with the logistical puzzle of big wall climbing and the sheer difficulty of some of El Capitan’s
hardest free pitches—The Great Roof (5.13d) and Changing Corners (5.14a).

Lynn Hill was the first to free the Nose in 1993. However, in an interview with Rock and Ice (“What I’ve Learned,” August 2014), Hill explained that she “essentially had a top-rope” on the Changing Corners pitch in 1993 due to the way the free variation had been bolted. In 1994, Hill returned to
the Valley and bested her previous style, climbing the Nose in a single day and re-climbing the crux Changing Corners pitch on lead.

Although Verhoeven’s ascent is now being considered the fourth, it’s worth mentioning that Scott Burk freed every pitch of the Nose in 1998. Burke
put over 200 days of effort into the route, however, he top-roped the Great Roof pitch because it was wet on his final attempt. He never returned to climb the pitch on lead.

 

Read more about Verhoeven’s ascent here 

 

Video produced By Louder Than Eleven. Original Score by: Fizzix Productions.