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Karl Egloff Setting New Lightning-Fast Speed Record on Denali

Check out Rock and Ice's new issue for a feature on speed ascents in the mountains, featuring Egloff. In it, Tracy Ross asks the question, will speed-climbing's future belong to climbers who can run, or to runners who can climb?

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Move over Kilian Jornet, there’s a new fastest man on Denali. Karl Egloff, the 38-year-old Swiss-Ecuadorian who has been taking down Jornet’s speed records on the Seven Summits one by one, has done it once more. On Thursday, June 20, Egloff climbed Denali in 11 hours 44 minutes roundtrip, base camp (7,200 feet) to base camp, taking 7 hours 40 minutes to reach the summit (20,310 feet) and another 4 hours 4 minutes to get back down.

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Egloff smashed Jornet’s previous ascent record, shaving 2 hours 5 minutes off of the Spaniard’s previous record of 9 hours 45 minutes from base camp to summit that he set in 2014. Egloff’s roundtrip time was also faster than Jornet’s (11:45) by a single minute, despite the fact that Jornet descended on skis while Egloff completed the entire climb—up and down—on foot.