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Climbing

Quoi de Neuf (8C/V15) Repeat by Jan Hojer

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Jan Hojer reports on Facebook, “Two years ago I tried it for the first time together with James Webb. We both flashed the second part of the 30 move line, which checks in at 8A+/8B by itself and did the first 7C+ish part the same session. But we couldn’t link it that day due to a lack of time and endurance.”

Needing a break from pulling on plastic as he was preparing for Lead Nationals recently, Hojer decided to see if he could put the whole line together. “It took me a while to get all the moves wired again but after some time the muscle memory kicked in. I took a long rest, going through the moves over and over again in my head before my first try from the start,” he writes.

“Sitting on top of the boulder, all I could do was smile!”

Rémy Bergasse made the first ascent of Quoi de Neuf, located in Orsay, France, in 2008. It was repeated twice in 2015, first by Seb Bouin and then by Alban Levier. Hojer’s is the fourth ascent of the problem.