Become a Member

Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more.

Already have an account? Sign In

Become a Member

Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more.

Already have an account? Sign In

Brands

Climbing

The New Deal (5.14a) – One of the Hardest Routes in Joshua Tree Gets a Second Ascent After 22 Years

The New Deal, established by Scott Cosgrove, follows barely-there holds up what is essentially an overhanging slab. No wonder it took so long to be repeated...

Lock Icon

Unlock this article and more benefits with 40% off.

Already have an Outside Account? Sign in

Outside+ Logo

40% Off Outside+.
$4.99/month $2.99/month*

Get the one subscription to fuel all your adventures.


  • Map your next adventure with our premium GPS apps: Gaia GPS Premium and Trailforks Pro.
  • Read unlimited digital content from 15+ brands, including Outside Magazine, Triathlete, Ski, Trail Runner, and VeloNews.
  • Watch 600+ hours of endurance challenges, cycling and skiing action, and travel documentaries.
  • Learn from the pros with expert-led online courses.
Join Outside+

*Outside memberships are billed annually. Print subscriptions available to U.S. residents only. You may cancel your membership at anytime, but no refunds will be issued for payments already made. Upon cancellation, you will have access to your membership through the end of your paid year. More Details

The New Deal in Joshua Tree National Park was the first 5.14a established by an American. Scott Cosgrove did the first ascent on Super Bowl Sunday January 31, 1988 and he suggested the grade of 5.13d. It took 22 years for The New Deal to see a second ascent. Alan Moore repeated it in 2010 and suggested the grade of 5.14a. Now almost a decade has passed and the route has yet to be climbed successfully again.

The New Deal was one of the very first rappel bolted routes in Joshua Tree and marks the beginning of the sport climbing revolution in the California. This did not sit well with Stonemaster legend John Bachar who promptly chopped all the bolts on the route. Cosgrove offered to settle it over a parking lot fist fight but Bachar declined. John Bachar later apologized and gave Cozzy nice bolts to fix the route.

The New Deal was a visionary rock climb for its time and still stands as one of the hardest routes in Joshua Tree National Park today.


Also Read

Scott Cosgrove, Bold Yosemite Climber, Passes Away