Evan Mann wrote to Rock and Ice, “Got one of me one sliding out of the Bombay chimney in Eldo!” The Bombay Chimney is the notoriously awkward second-to-last pitch on The Naked Edge (5.11), Eldorado Canyon, Colorado.
Many a climber has been less enthused about a fall from just that position—the manky piton in the overlap below is perhaps a mite less than bombproof. Some choose to back it up with a small cam just beside the pin; others just clip the pin as is and, if they do fall, pray they aren’t the proverbial straw that breaks the camel’s back.
But in reality, the pin seems pretty solid. We’ve tested it ourselves multiple times and have lived to tell the tale, just as Mann did. Nice work, Evan!
Happy Friday and climb safe this weekend!