In the crux roof at the beginning of The Disintegrator, a 24 (5.11d) in the Blue Mountains, Australia, there is an intermediate crimp to help you pull through the steepest section and reach the mother of all jugs.
But Stephen Rawls decided not to mess around with the little crimp, deeming it a distraction more than anything. “I’m all for big moves on jugs rather than small moves on crimps, so I said, “Stuff it, I’ll just go big or go home,'” Stephen tells Rock and Ice.
He goes for the nearly-all-points-off dyno. And at first it seems he sticks it! But a split second later it becomes ever so clear that he’s in for some trouble. “On the swing back in to the wall my hand popped and the momentum of my legs going forward sent me flying into this cartwheel of death,” Stephen says.
Not one to change unnecessarily dynamic beta, Stephen got back on the route right afterwards for another go. “I’m happy to report I went for it again, held the swing, and got the send.” he says. Nice work Stephen!
Happy Friday and climb safe this weekend!