Become a Member

Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more.

Already have an account? Sign In

Become a Member

Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more.

Already have an account? Sign In

Brands

Weekend Whippers

Weekend Whipper: Deep Space Nine (5.13a), Cowell, AR

Everyone dreads insecure clips—you know, the type where you're standing on glassy smears and have try to sling the rope through the quickdraw as quickly as you can. Patrick Small knows the kind all too well.

Lock Icon

Become a member to unlock this story and receive other great perks.

Already have an Outside Account? Sign in

Outside+ Logo

All-Access
Intro Offer
$3.99 / month*

  • A $500 value with 25+ benefits including:
  • Access to all member-only content on all 17 publications in the Outside network like Rock and Ice, Climbing, Outside, Backpacker, Trail Runner and more
  • Annual subscription to Climbing magazine.
  • Annual gear guides for climbing, camping, skiing, cycling, and more
  • Gaia GPS Premium with hundreds of maps and global trail recommendations, a $39.99 value
  • Outside Learn, our new online education hub loaded with more than 2,000 videos across 450 lessons including 6 Weeks to Stronger Fingers and Strength Training for Injury Prevention
  • Premium access to Outside TV and 1,000+ hours of exclusive shows
  • Annual subscription to Outside magazine
Join Outside+

*Outside memberships are billed annually. Print subscriptions available to U.S. residents only. You may cancel your membership at anytime, but no refunds will be issued for payments already made. Upon cancellation, you will have access to your membership through the end of your paid year. More Details

Everyone dreads insecure clips—you know, the type where you’re standing on glassy smears and have try to sling the rope through the quickdraw as quickly as you can. Patrick Small knows the kind all too well.

A few years ago Mike Ridolfo went out for a day climbing with his friend Patrick Small and  some guy named Barrett (“Can’t remember his last name,” Ridolfo writes to Rock and Ice).

Belayed by this Barrett dude, Small started up a 5.13a called Deep Space Nine. The route’s Mountain Project page reads: “Once you reach the roof traverse right underneath it following the line of fixed bolts. From here you make a few slabby moves with small feet that lead you to the entrance of the crux. Make a [weird] clip, regain yourself and bust straight up to some bigger holds.”

Ah yes. Slabby moves and a weird clip.

“This was early-ish into working the climb and Patrick didn’t have the best way to clip that bolt yet,” Ridolfo writes. “After pulling the traverse sequence his foot blew while he was clipping cause him to basically bellyflop until the rope stopped the fall.”

No word on whether Patrick ever sent (Patrick?). We hope so… if only to atone for the horrific music these guys were playing at the crag. Come on guys: music at the crag is a faux pas to begin with, but if you’re going to play something, for the love of all that is holy don’t play that noise.

Happy Friday and climb safe this weekend!


Also watch Weekend Whipper: James Bond Takes a Mega Whip in “For Your Eyes Only”