Become a Member

Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more.

Already have an account? Sign In

Become a Member

Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more.

Already have an account? Sign In

Brands

Weekend Whippers

Weekend Whipper: E.M.U.B.I.G.S (5.13c/d R), Squamish, B.C.

Stu Smith takes a sideways ride on less-than-inspiring gear, on a new route he established on the Malamute in Squamish, B.C.

Lock Icon

Unlock this article and more benefits with 25% off.

Already have an Outside Account? Sign in

Outside+ Logo

25% Off Outside+.
$4.99/month $3.75/month*

Get the one subscription to fuel all your adventures.


  • Map your next adventure with our premium GPS apps: Gaia GPS Premium and Trailforks Pro.
  • Read unlimited digital content from 15+ brands, including Outside Magazine, Triathlete, Ski, Trail Runner, and VeloNews.
  • Watch 600+ hours of endurance challenges, cycling and skiing action, and travel documentaries.
  • Learn from the pros with expert-led online courses.
Join Outside+

*Outside memberships are billed annually. Print subscriptions available to U.S. residents only. You may cancel your membership at anytime, but no refunds will be issued for payments already made. Upon cancellation, you will have access to your membership through the end of your paid year. More Details

Sometimes the scariest falls aren’t way above your last piece, but way to the side of them. Such is the case here.

Canadian climber Stu Smith recently made the first ascent of E.M.U.B.I.G.S (short for “Everyone’s Moving Up But I’m Going Sideways”), a 30-meter 5.13c/d R at the Malamute, in Squamish, B.C., Canada.

The “R” comes right near the end. The pitch, Smith writes to Rock and Ice, “climbs a 5.12- vertical dyke to join a horizontal seam through a slightly overhung polished wall. The seam builds in difficulty to the very end. Minimal to no feet and finicky small gear, the last of which being a flared small blue alien a fair distance from the anchor.”

Smith continues, “If that piece blows you deck.”

Smith worked on the route for four months, and in the end, the “mental game” of pulling hard above marginal gear was the greatest challenge. “As soon as the last piece was placed my nerves would shut me down,” he says, “until I came at it with a different head space  [of] ‘it is what it is, it’s rad, have fun.'”

Fun? If cold fear is your idea of fun, then sure.  Rad? Most definitely.

Happy Friday and climb safe this weekend.

Watch last week’s Weekend Whipper: Alabama Backwoods Bouldering Fall