This is a good one! You can always count on the Brits to try some sketchy little trad rigs that’d scare the bejesus out of us tame-by-comparison Yankees.
Allan Evans and his friends were climbing at Wilton 1 Quarry in the U.K. when he decided to get on Cheat (E3 5b).
Despite only having climbed several E1 routes prior, Allan said, “I really liked the line and felt it was within my abilities.” He had scoped it out on earlier visits but never taken the plunge.
“I guess I was feeling brave this day and I’d been climbing well so decided I’d jump on it,” he said. “It was a hot day and this wall had been in the sun all day, so maybe it wasn’t the best time to try it.”
Allan smartly opted for double ropes—the protection is widely spaced, and mostly small wires. He carefully made his way up the first two thirds, climbing slowly and methodically.
“Then I went for the finish moves,” he said, “got too focused on the climbing and didn’t pay enough attention to the ropes and the flip potential—a bad foot placement caused me to grease off and that was it!”
Allan flipped upside down and hit the wall with an audible smack.
He concluded, “Some will say I probably wasn’t ready to try to onsight an E3 and that’s a fair comment, but I was aware of risks and I was comfortable taking it. Luckily I didn’t get any serious injuries, just a bruised back. Wear a helmet kids! Will be getting back on the lead for this on a cooler day.”
Good stuff Allan, we’ll be rooting for you on round two.
Happy Friday and climb safe this weekend!