Become a Member

Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more.

Already have an account? Sign In

Become a Member

Get access to more than 30 brands, premium video, exclusive content, events, mapping, and more.

Already have an account? Sign In

Brands

Weekend Whippers

Weekend Whipper: Quickdraw Unclips Itself During Fall

This one is pretty fascinating. Be sure to read the description for some expert analysis by Kolin Powick, Climbing Category Director at Black Diamond ?

Lock Icon

Become a member to unlock this story and receive other great perks.

Already have an Outside Account? Sign in

Outside+ Logo

All-Access
Intro Offer
$3.99 / month*

  • A $500 value with 25+ benefits including:
  • Access to all member-only content on all 17 publications in the Outside network like Rock and Ice, Climbing, Outside, Backpacker, Trail Runner and more
  • Annual subscription to Climbing magazine.
  • Annual gear guides for climbing, camping, skiing, cycling, and more
  • Gaia GPS Premium with hundreds of maps and global trail recommendations, a $39.99 value
  • Outside Learn, our new online education hub loaded with more than 2,000 videos across 450 lessons including 6 Weeks to Stronger Fingers and Strength Training for Injury Prevention
  • Premium access to Outside TV and 1,000+ hours of exclusive shows
  • Annual subscription to Outside magazine
Join Outside+

*Outside memberships are billed annually. Print subscriptions available to U.S. residents only. You may cancel your membership at anytime, but no refunds will be issued for payments already made. Upon cancellation, you will have access to your membership through the end of your paid year. More Details

Self closing and opening carabiners? This could be a great idea for a forward-thinking climbing company: a smart carabiner, a la those creepy Alexa things people have in their homes. Just say carabiner open, and voila!

While it didn’t work quite that way in this Whipper, the quickdraw did ultimately unclip itself. Aislynn Trompler was climbing Hippocrite (5.12a) at the Zoo, in the Red River Gorge, Kentucky, belayed by Jonathan Neville.

We asked Kolin Powick, Climbing Category Director at Black Diamond, to break down for us what he believes happened based on the video. “The Biner started off cross loaded during the fall and then got hung up a bit as the fall started,” Powick says. “With everything flipping and flopping around during the fall (which is normal), plus the tension in the rope because the bolt above was clipped, the dogbone migrates UP the gate. The spine of the carabiner hits the wall, causing the gate to open. As the gate is open, the dogbone slides right off.”

Trompler was fine, clearly—the draw that unclipped itself from the rope was not the highest she had clipped, so it was a normal fall other than that. But, Powick says, “If she had fallen prior to the next bolt clipped, the same thing may have happened… tough to say because the tension in the rope up to the next bolt wouldn’t have been there. Regardless, if it had happened, she would have been in for a big whip, and perhaps been pretty darn close to the ground.”

Ultimately, this kind of whipper is a good learning and teaching experience. “I think the moral of the story is take note of the orientation of your quickdraws as you climb past them. If they’re out of whack, fix them,” Powick says. “If I’m belaying and notice something that doesn’t look right, I’ll tell the climber to flick the rope to get things to orient correctly. Correctly oriented carabiners and quickdraws are far less likely to have wackiness like that happen.”

Happy Friday and climb safe this weekend!


Watch Last Week’s Whipper

Weekend Whipper: Invert Offwidth Struggles


CLICK HERE FOR TONS MORE WEEKEND WHIPPERS!

Got a whipper of your own? Email it to instagram@bigstonepub.com

promo logo