In the old guidebook to climbing in Lofoten, Norway, Tapir (No7-/6c/5.11b) was listed as one of the top 50 climbs. Located on the west face the Pianokrakken (the Piano Chair) crag, the route follows a “sustained crack up to a bolt which protects a hard high-step move to the finish,” according to the guidebook.
Undaunted by the “hard high-step move,” Thea, this week’s whippee, decided to give Tapir a burn. Thea told Rock and Ice, via an email from her climbing partner Ulf, that she thought she “could use the undercling while placing the next pro, but that didn’t work well. Then I tried to find a good foot placement, and since I couldn’t hold onto the crack easily, it was difficult for me to retreat.”
Thea’s leg got caught behind the rope when she fell. She flipped upside down and came extremely close to hitting the ground. She hit the wall with a resounding thud.
Ulf told Rock and Ice, “Luckily she didn’t break any bones. She just bruised her ego, scared her audience, and got a gnarly rope burn circling her thigh.”
He concluded,”While we all should use this as a reminder to be cautious while climbing, and to place protection more often if we’re close to the ground and there’s a big risk of falling, we should also all aim to be as stoked and brave as Thea: going all in on a route way above her normal level, completely disregarding her comfort zone.”
Here’s to that: climbing safely and pushing it at the some time! Nice work Thea, and we’re glad you’re ok.
Happy Friday and climb safe this weekend!