Weekend Whipper: Two Ice Climbing Lead Falls, Back-to-Back
Tsk, tsk. Don't you guys know the first rule of falling when ice climbing?
Unlock this article and more benefits with 50% off.
Already have an Outside Account? Sign in
40% Off Outside+.
$4.99/month $2.99/month*
Get the one subscription to fuel all your adventures.
- Map your next adventure with our premium GPS apps: Gaia GPS Premium and Trailforks Pro.
- Read unlimited digital content from 15+ brands, including Outside Magazine, Triathlete, Ski, Trail Runner, and VeloNews.
- Watch 600+ hours of endurance challenges, cycling and skiing action, and travel documentaries.
- Learn from the pros with expert-led online courses.
*Outside memberships are billed annually. Print subscriptions available to U.S. residents only. You may cancel your membership at anytime, but no refunds will be issued for payments already made. Upon cancellation, you will have access to your membership through the end of your paid year. More Details
The first rule of falling when ice climbing is don’t fall when ice climbing.
With that said, it seems silly to include a second rule about falling when ice climbing, but if you’re daft enough to botch the first rule, the second rule would probably be don’t fall again when ice climbing, especially on the same route you just fell on. I mean, come on…
Last weekend, Sam Reeves was out at Hidden Falls, Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado with a couple buddies. They decided to climb a smaller flow (WI 4+ M5) off to the right of the main flow. It was in decidedly brittle, bony conditions.
With his pal Evan West on belay and his friend Wes behind the camera, Sam starts up. He places a screw, and then—crash, he’s off. “Take two,” he says in the video.
He makes it higher on the next attempt, but nearly craters when his front points sheer off the ice yet again with a sound like shattering china icicles fall to the ground.
“No serious injuries,” Sam reported to Rock and Ice, “but my right knee is pretty bruised.”
In short, Sam, we think you got away with one (or two) here.
For anyone everyone else leading ice—if you have any doubts about the integrity of the ice or your ability to climb it without getting pumped, turn around and lower off, clip into a tool, or just throw a TR on the dang thing.
Happy Friday and climb safe this weekend!
Also Read
Will Gadd’s Tips: How to Place Ice Screws
Will Gadd’s Tips: How to Place Ice Tools and Crampons
Also Watch
Weekend Whipper: Ice Fall Wrecking Ball
Weekend Whipper: Falling In The Icefall