This video comes to us from Ian Thompson. We’ll let him provide the full rundown. He explained in an email:
“This video was taken when a friend and I decided to make a 5 day trip down to Squamish B.C. Our plan was to start on Calculus Crack, a very popular and moderate 5.8 multi-pitch, to get our bearings for the rest of the trip. We found what we believed to be the start of the route, with assistance from some of the local climbers (we did not have a guidebook). About halfway up, I began to realize that Squamish 5.8 was pretty stiff! Didn’t think much about it though…
“As I got to the wide off-width crack at the top, I was beginning to get some pump and didn’t have the proper jam technique to continue. As I have been able to read a little on MP since my accident, it turns out I was actually on a 5.10c line, called Start From Scratch. My last piece, a red size 1″ Camalot, popped. [Ian accidentally refers to this as a #2 cam in the video.] In retrospect, it should not have been placed where it was, due to the possibility of flex on the right side of the flake.
“As I pointed out in the [original YouTube] video description, ‘I have learned much from this experience; however, the major thing that would have saved me from this terrible accident was better preparedness. Lucky, I only came out with a sprained ankle and rope burn—from where the rope wrapped around my neck during the fall. My biggest hope from posting this failure was for it to be a learning experience for beginning trad climbers. Be safe out there everyone!”
Thanks for sharing the lessons you took away from this experience, Ian. Glad you’re alright.
Happy Friday and climb safe this weekend!